ACTION OF WAVES

CONTENT

  1. Definition of Waves, Tides and Ocean Currents and their Characteristics.
  2. Erosional Processes of Waves
  3. Erosional Features of Wave Action
  4. Features of Coastal Deposition

 

Definition of Waves, Tides and Ocean Currents

Waves are formed by winds blowing over the ocean surface which cause the surface water to move towards the coast in ripples or waves. In other word wave can be defined as an oscillatory movement of a large body of water approaching the coast. It is the most powerful and important agent of marine erosion.

Tide is the alternate rise and fall of the surface of the sea, approximately two times a day.

Ocean current is the regular movement of the surface water of the ocean from one part of the ocean to another.

 

Erosional Processes of Waves (Mechanism of Wave Erosion)

1. Corrosion:

It is the wearing down of the base of the cliff by mass of fragments carried by wave action.

2. Attrition:

It is the breaking down of materials like pebbles, boulders, etc.

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